Tuesday, 27 May 2014

Part 14


Suddenly I open my eyes, because I hear a scary noise. First I heard it subconsciously in my sleep and dreamt a lot of funny things, but then when I realised that the sound was real and not dreamt, I awoke from my afternoon nap.

It was a long and tiresome day. Sometime at dawn the muezzin goes up the stairs of his minaret and calls the believers to prayer and a few minutes later the voice of the Imam is to be heard. I no longer wake up to the singing and humming, but continue my sleep. I’ve got used to it. However I get up before 6am. Partly because it’s freezing cold in my flat – in the desert the temperature drops rapidly at night, and since there is no oil or gas heating system, but instead, an air con that makes a hell of a noise is being used as a method of heating, which I refrain from using it due to the noise and partly because of the sunlight shining through the window due to the non existent curtains.

At 7.30am we start our daily morning trip to work in our shabby Nissan bus and arrive at the polytechnic in just under a quarter of an hour later. After making tea and coffee in the kitchen, follow four hours of teaching. Interrupted by ten-minute-breaks. The teaching is very demanding, because many students are missing during the first hour, you have to repeat many things in the second hour, otherwise they won’t be able to follow. Some students take part in the lesson, other rather not. There are two groups of the latter: the ones who sit quietly and passively and don’t disrupt or disturb the lesson and the other ones, the noise and troublemakers. However, all have one thing in common. They want to be marked present on the attendance list, because they fail if they have more than 30 missing hours. That’s why they all come every hour not only to me but to all the other teachers too wanting to see if they have been marked present or absent. If they’ve been marked absent, they won’t leave you in peace and bugger you to change it into a presence.

With me, they bang their head against a brick wall. One of my Bengali colleagues is more consistent when it comes to attendances. When he enters his classroom, he shuts the door and starts calling out student names immediately. Bad luck for whoever is not there right at that moment. He won’t listen to anybody and to any reasons. All students fear and hate him, I admire him.

If the students want to go home because they have a bad hairdo day or whatever, they come to you with all sorts of excuses to be excused to leave – without being marked absent of course. Once it is the mother who is either in a hospital or needs to be driven there, once it is another family member who needs to go to the hospital or is already lying there fighting for his life, sometimes the student is feeling unwell and needs to go to the hospital, and of course he has to be driven by his best friend because he is unwell and cannot drive himself. And once somebody has passed away and therefore they need to leave the classroom for the rest of the day.

Today some came to me with all those above mentioned reasons. One however took the bun. He came to me in the first hour and said that his brother had a terrible car accident last night and is now in the intensive care unit and he has therefore to leave and if I could mark him present for the entire day.

“I cannot, and now sit down and be quiet!”

In the first break he came up to me and showed me photographs of a traffic accident and a severely injured person and said it was his brother. I looked calmly through his photos and asked:

“Didn’t you say earlier that the accident happened at night?”

“Yes.”

“Why am I seeing here broad daylight? It’s dark at night, isn’t it?”

Then he became angry with me and disrupted the lessons the rest of the day. When I had enough I called the security men, who brought him to the manager of the school.

After each break there are always a few students who arrive late and are not allowed to enter the building. The security men have been advised to shut the main entrance and not let anybody in. That’s why the students come to the window, knock on it and require that I mark them present because they were only a few seconds late and the mean security wouldn’t let them in. If they don’t go away, I call security and in order to be able to continue my lesson in peace.

My well deserved lunch break starts at 11.50am and lasts for an hour. The food is sometimes good, sometimes bad. It really depends on the chef’s mood. But it is almost the same every day. There are two salads to choose from, plain rice, rice with chunks of meat or sauce or both, chicken cooked in every possible way, spring rolls, soup, vegetable soup, fruit, yoghurt, soft drink, dessert, pita bread. All this for less than a pound.

Since the teacher’s room in the cafeteria is small, musty and cold, I prefer to sit outside in a sunny corner. The problem is that the students won’t let you eat in peace and come to ask even during the lunch break for attendances. I then play the madman and tell them stories about flowers and bees until they go away shaking their heads.

Three hours of teaching follow after the lunch break. We go into a different classroom and teach the students of a fellow teacher. Since both, students and teachers are all tired and no one really has the energy to go through another three hours of lessons, came one of the colleagues with the brilliant idea to show films. Problem No. 1: Not every classroom is equipped with a beamer or projector. 2: There are no speakers, so we had to buy our own. 3: The students prefer to chat with each other instead of watching a film and 4: Our project manager has forbidden it for a fucked up reason and now we are forced to hold a normal teaching class.

At around 2.30pm came on a storm and it rained heavily for about 15 minutes. When the students heard the splashing rainwater they stormed out of the classrooms into the pouring rain. They danced and sang, took photographs and were very happy. Although I had heard that they Arabs loved the rain and loved dancing in the rain, I see and experience it for the first time. When the fun was over, they came back into the classroom and said that they had to go home now to change and couldn’t sit in the class with soaking wet clothes. So I sent more than half the class home. The other half regretted it not to have gone out in the rain to dance and become soaking wet and had to stay until the end of the day, that’s why I played a game with them until the time was up.

One of the teachers didn’t come to work today due to illness and I had to teach his class too. That’s why I fell dead to bed when I got home.

Now I wake up by the roaring wind and look out of the window. Sandstorm. I watch it for a while and go back to bed.
Tomorrow is a new day. A hopefully better one.

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                                                Stormy weather

    Sandstorm, seen from my window.





                             




Wednesday, 21 May 2014

My daily way to work

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Our shabby bus

   The neighbourhood

    Road in front of our residence

   a school

   Buildings along the way



    Which way to go?

   This way to ....
 
    erm, yes.

   a crown

    Mohammad, our driver. Always happy.

   The towers on the left belong to the electricity company and not to an oil company.

   Under construction.

    Buildings in the desert.
 
    One of the most beautiful mosques in the city.

    Desert.


   Some of the colleagues.

    Kids having fun.

    Shops



   Done by Germans?

   Police and Army housing.

    Buildings

   Wedding hall

    Desert with stylish pavement

    Park

    Nicer than the Berlin Wall




Saturday, 17 May 2014

Part 13

                                                                 BlackBerry

                     WhiteBerry

                     WhatBerry


                                                             
After lunch I sit with Dr Suha in the lobby of the main building on two extremely comfortable black leather chairs and talk with each other. Left of us is a security guard sitting behind his desk. Apart from us, there’s no one to disturb the peacefulness. From our seats we can see outside through the glass entrance. From the side where the security guard is seated, an electronic beep is to be heard. A noise like the one of a video- or a mobile phone game. The security guard is probably playing a game on his phone. At some point the noise stops and the security guard stands up and comes to us with his mobile phone.

In his very poor English he tries to ask for a BlackBerry charger. He holds his white mobile is his hand and asks more in Arabic than in English if anyone of us has a BlackBerry charger. Dr Suha and I look and smile at each other briefly and then says Dr Suha to him: “You mean for your WhiteBerry!”

“Ha?” asks the security guard.

“Look” I say, taking my black BlackBerry out of my pocket. “This is a ‘BlackBerry’, what you have is a ‘WhiteBerry’.”

“WhatBerry?” asks the security guard irritated and we roll around with laughter.

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Tuesday, 13 May 2014

Part 12.2


Since I’m walking alone today, I take the time to have a closer look at where I’m passing by. The two Pakistani colleagues were a little too fast on the first walk and didn’t wait for me when I wanted to take a photograph or look at something more closely and I had to run in order to catch them.

After the street with the stylish lampposts and the waiting men, I pass two schools. My colleagues have told me that they are schools. I wouldn’t have guessed it and I don’t understand the signs on the walls. A boy and a girls’ school. Not quite side by side, by fairly close to each other. As you can see on the photo, the school looks more like a prison, a ministry or military building. Anything other than a school. There’s a lodge and you have to pass a control and inspection before you’re allowed in. Just like in the military. In the girls’ school next door, the security precautions are even tighter. The building is built in a way, that you can’t see anything from outside. As a man you’re not allowed in, not even as a father. Only mothers and women are allowed to enter.

A couple of blocks later comes a very wide street on the left hand side. This is the streets that runs transversely through the centre of Ar’ar. At the very beginning it’s extremely wide and is adorned by trees and green and an orange bridge, then it becomes somewhat narrower and has shops on both sides. Of the few people on the street, I don’t see anybody going over the bridge. When I climb up the stairs, two men look at me with interest. When I reach the top of the stairs and see the bridge in front of me, I can see litter on the bridge. Now I start to believe that really no one uses it. I take a few photos from up there, since the view is quite nice.

I continue my walk into the centre. I pass various shops. A few cafés, a few hairdressers’ and barbers’ shops, fast food shops, a building site on which the sign of soon-to-open gym is already installed, many perfume shops, men clothing stores, watch- and (sun) glasses shops, the restaurant Safa, which I pay a visit again.

The staff greet me friendly and I greet back. Ordering food takes a little longer and is more difficult today – the two Pakistani colleagues know at least a few words of Arabic, I on the other hand can’t even say ‘hello’. Well, me and the waiter use our hands and feet and manage to understand each other and I get what I want to eat. I go over to the tea master, watch him preparing tea and drink a cup with him. Then I go to wash my hands before I sit down at the table to eat. Not only in this part of the world, but in the largest part, people use their hands and fingers instead of cutlery. Cutlery is rare. If you ask for it, you’ll get some plastic one. Therefore there are everywhere washing facilities, where you find warm water, soap and paper tissues or dryers.

While I’m enjoying my dinner or late lunch, I look around me at the people coming and going. The restaurant is slowly becoming more crowded. When I’m almost done with my meal, four women come into the restaurant. That baffles me though. Why? It’s normal, isn’t it? Rather not. Well, how can I explain it? It is as if four smoker would march into a pub or restaurant where smoking is strictly forbidden and would light up cigars or roll some cigarettes. Blimey!

Since in Saudi the sexes don’t mix, there’s everything twice (schools, universities, etc.). Or separate rooms like in restaurants in our country – smokers and non-smokers. Here it’s divided for men and families. In the mosques, restaurants, banks, etc, there’s always a separate entrance for women and/or families. Sometimes there’s only one entrance, but inside there are different rooms or spaces. In addition to that, there are banks that have branches for women only. There are restaurants and cafés that are frequented by men only. I thought Safa was such a restaurant.

The women go to the counter and converse naturally with the waiter and then sit down at a table by the window. No one seems to be interested, no one looks or stares at them, no one shows any intention to send them away and no one says anything when they take down their veils to eat.

Before I came to Saudi I read in various Blogs, reports and books that the men would make a revolt in such a situation. Thank God nothing is happening here. I take the side exit and go outside. Then I drift along the streets of the centre and have a closer look at the various buildings. I take some photographs from time to time. A few kids stop and look at me. When I look back and smile at them, they run away laughing. There are no tall buildings. A maximum of two floors. But what strikes me is the age and the condition of the buildings. They look a bit shabby and run down. I walk through the mobile shop street, then through the men’s clothing street, etc. At some point I change the side of the road and go to the other side of the main road that goes through the centre. There I see more shops and restaurants. When I turn somewhere, the pictures changes. Suddenly there are couples and families on the streets and shops with toys, women’s clothing, etc. Also the roads are in a better condition and generally everything looks more beautiful. I then pass a square. This square is a pedestrian are, probably the only one in the entire city and it is adorned with trees and benches. The display of a perfume shop draws me like a magnet and I lose myself in the endless range of perfumes. When I turn around, I see a few yards away, a group of women sitting on a bench, looking at me and giggling.

I walk across the square and reach the main road. Barely there, a car stops in front of me. One of the windows go down and one of the young men sitting inside the car shouts: “Hey teacher! Where are you going?”

“Home” I reply.

„Come on, get in the car, we drive you!“

That’s convenient I think to myself. I have been walking for several hours and from here it would be an hour’s walk to reach home. So I voluntarily climb into the Mercedes ML and let me be driven home.

In the car pictures are taken, some of me alone and some of me with them together and I’m being asked where I’ve been and what I’ve seen and if I liked it. Not even two days later, everyone knows everything at the polytechnic and photographs of me are on various mobiles and have already made their round on Instagram.

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Photographs can be see here: (opens in a new window).

Ar'ar photos part 6

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    School

          Main street through Ar'ar

   Arab style buildings


    Orange Gate Bridge

   View to the right

   View to the left

                             On the Orange Gate Bridge

It's the final countdown, tutu tutu, tutu tutu.....

   Stop (in the name of love). Doesn't it look like a snail on its back?

   Blue Gate Bridge

   Arab style building with shops on the ground floor

    Mobile phone street during prayer time

   Central side street

   Shops closed for prayer time

   Side street

   Shops

   Main road

   Side street

   Main road