It is my final day in the Sultanate and I am sad that my stay is almost over. One week has gone by quickly. I wish I could stay longer, because there are many things and places I haven't seen.
First thing on my agenda today is meeting a friend of a friend in Al Mouj. After a half an hour drive this wonderful, but sad morning, I arrive in Al Mouj and park my car. Images of the race a few days ago come to my mind and I feel touched and get sentimental. I look around and have visions of the day I came to collect my race kit and of the day the race took place. Since I am a bit early, I use the opportunity to walk around. It is very quiet and peaceful and the people are cheerful. When it's time to meet the friend of my friend, I walk to the cafe we are supposed to meet and see that she has come with a friend of hers. This friend of my friend is Bosnian, but lives in Italy and the friend she has come with is Saudi, so we have a lot in common and a lot to talk about. We talk about the differences between Oman and Saudi and all the changes Saudi has undergone recently. Some of the big changes are that women are allowed to drive and that the country is open to tourism. Well, it sort of was before, too, but only to religious tourism. This means that muslims could enter Saudi to visit either Mekka or Medina or both. Non-muslims are not allowed to enter the holy cities and could therefore not enter the country to travel around. Now you can apply through the Saudi embassy in your country and visit the country. Of course you're not allowed to enter the holy areas in Mekka and Medina if you are not muslim.
We sit there for about an hour until they say that they have to go to meet some colleagues of that Saudi lady.
I drive back to my hotel, make a plan and leave again. I want to go back to the area the Lonely Planet describes as Old Muscat. I want to pass by Al Bustan Street and take photos of this beautiful street. From there I want to go to the old town and visit the souq. As soon as I reach Al Bustan Street, I start driving slowly and stop every few yards to take photos.
First thing on my agenda today is meeting a friend of a friend in Al Mouj. After a half an hour drive this wonderful, but sad morning, I arrive in Al Mouj and park my car. Images of the race a few days ago come to my mind and I feel touched and get sentimental. I look around and have visions of the day I came to collect my race kit and of the day the race took place. Since I am a bit early, I use the opportunity to walk around. It is very quiet and peaceful and the people are cheerful. When it's time to meet the friend of my friend, I walk to the cafe we are supposed to meet and see that she has come with a friend of hers. This friend of my friend is Bosnian, but lives in Italy and the friend she has come with is Saudi, so we have a lot in common and a lot to talk about. We talk about the differences between Oman and Saudi and all the changes Saudi has undergone recently. Some of the big changes are that women are allowed to drive and that the country is open to tourism. Well, it sort of was before, too, but only to religious tourism. This means that muslims could enter Saudi to visit either Mekka or Medina or both. Non-muslims are not allowed to enter the holy cities and could therefore not enter the country to travel around. Now you can apply through the Saudi embassy in your country and visit the country. Of course you're not allowed to enter the holy areas in Mekka and Medina if you are not muslim.
We sit there for about an hour until they say that they have to go to meet some colleagues of that Saudi lady.
I drive back to my hotel, make a plan and leave again. I want to go back to the area the Lonely Planet describes as Old Muscat. I want to pass by Al Bustan Street and take photos of this beautiful street. From there I want to go to the old town and visit the souq. As soon as I reach Al Bustan Street, I start driving slowly and stop every few yards to take photos.
Al Bustan Street images
This is part of the parliament building
This elegant building, completed in 2013, is home to the two houses of the Majlis ash Shura, Oman’s parliament. It is not open to the public but it does make for a fine photo opportunity with its traditional low-rise, Omani-style, modern architecture, backed by Muscat’s distinctive russet-coloured ophiolite mountains. The partially elected Majlis ash Shura assists the state in the formation of policy.
Source: Lonely Planet
Source: Lonely Planet
Small tower opposite the parliament building
Sohar (boat)
Just outside Al Bustan Palace Hotel, opposite the imposing parliament buildings, a small roundabout is home to the Sohar, a boat named after the hometown of the famous Omani seafarer Ahmed bin Majid. The boat is a replica of one sailed by Abdullah bin Gasm in the mid-8th century to Guangzhou in China. It was built in the dhow yards of Sur from the bark of over 75,000 palm trees and four tonnes of rope. Not a single nail was used in the construction.
Tim Severin and a crew of Omani sailors undertook a famous voyage to Guangzhou in this boat in 1980 – a journey of 6000 nautical miles that took eight months to complete.
Source: Lonely Planet
Tim Severin and a crew of Omani sailors undertook a famous voyage to Guangzhou in this boat in 1980 – a journey of 6000 nautical miles that took eight months to complete.
Source: Lonely Planet
Parliament building from the side
Al Bustan Palace
Set in lush gardens, this sumptuous hotel was built as a venue for the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) summit in 1985. Remarkable for its enormous domed atrium, the hotel is worth a visit just to admire the building’s interior and the location.
Source: Lonely Planet
I didn't go inside, that's why I have only these two shots.
On the way to 'Old Muscat' and the roundabout with the National Museum
'Old Muscat'
Muscat Gate Museum
Straddling the road between the corniche and the old walled city, this museum, with the original gates used until the 1970s to keep land-bound marauders out, marks the position of the old city wall and introduces Muscat proper. Though the museum’s exhibits are of limited interest, the site provides an excellent vantage point for the corniche and the diwan.
A drive up to the aerial mast on the neighbouring hill gives an even better view of Mutrah and Muscat before dropping down to Al Riyam Park in Mutrah.
Source: Lonely Planet
A drive up to the aerial mast on the neighbouring hill gives an even better view of Mutrah and Muscat before dropping down to Al Riyam Park in Mutrah.
Source: Lonely Planet
The Corniche
No idea what this is
Roundabout art
The Souq
Many people come to Mutrah Corniche just to visit the souq, which retains the chaotic interest of a traditional Arab market albeit housed under modern timber roofing. Shops selling Omani and Indian artefacts together with a few antiques jostle among more traditional textile, hardware and jewellery stores. Bargaining is expected although discounts tend to be small. Cards are generally accepted in most shops, but bring cash for better deals. The main entry is via the corniche, opposite the pedestrian traffic lights.
The traditional coffeehouse at the souq’s entrance is a rare relic from the past and a locals-only meeting point for elderly men. Take care not to wander into the historic Shiite district of Al Lawataya by mistake, as the settlement is walled for a good purpose. A sign under the archway requests that visitors keep out.
The traditional coffeehouse at the souq’s entrance is a rare relic from the past and a locals-only meeting point for elderly men. Take care not to wander into the historic Shiite district of Al Lawataya by mistake, as the settlement is walled for a good purpose. A sign under the archway requests that visitors keep out.
Navigating the souq takes a bit of practice. You enter by going slightly uphill away from the sea. If you keep turning right at each junction, you will of course come back to the sea. If in doubt, head downhill. That said, getting lost inside the souq is part of the fun. A right fork at the first junction and a left at Muscat Pharmacy should lead you to an Aladdin’s Cave of a bead shop and Al Ahli Coffeeshop, famed for its fresh juices, but then again...
Source: Lonely Planet
I have to say that the article is right, you can get lost easily in the souq, because there are far too many paths and it is like a labyrinth. I enter the souq through the main gate by the sea, walk straight for a while until I find the other gate at a square. Then enter the souq again and take one of the little paths on my left and this is where the fun begins...
Source: Lonely Planet
I have to say that the article is right, you can get lost easily in the souq, because there are far too many paths and it is like a labyrinth. I enter the souq through the main gate by the sea, walk straight for a while until I find the other gate at a square. Then enter the souq again and take one of the little paths on my left and this is where the fun begins...
Crossroads
It leads to a square with shops and a mosque
I am still in the maze... and I discover the Gold Souq after a long while.
If you’re visiting Mutrah Souq, don’t miss a stroll through the narrow alleys that house the glittering gold shops. The bridal gold, worked into bibs, buckles and belts, may not be to everyone’s taste, but the sheer accumulation of treasure in the shop windows is exciting on the eye. To find the gold souq, enter Mutrah Souq via the main entry off Mutrah Corniche, turn right immediately through the textile shops and turn left just before re-entering the corniche.
If you feel comfortable getting lost, the alleyways behind the main gold souq are home to shops selling precious stones and silver. This is where monocled old men with beards sit in a muddle of uncut, semiprecious stones, making and mending rings and pendants in designs that are as old as the hands that craft them.
Source: Lonely Planet
Source: Lonely Planet
More than an hour later, I manage to find my way out of the souq, but unfortunately not on the Corniche side. Never mind, as I wanted to roam through the streets behind the souq anyway. Now I am here and it is very exciting.
No visitors allowed in this mosque, says a sign at the door.
Old ship in the harbour
I return to my hotel after many hours of walking around and pack my suitcase. I try to sleep for a few hours, but have difficulties to fall asleep. My flight is at 4:25am and I have to leave the hotel around 1:30am.
Many thoughts run through my head and I think about the past week. It has been a very exciting week. I manage to sleep for a bit over an hour and wake a few minutes past midnight. I get ready, take my belongings and go down to the reception. It's the same guy from the morning of my arrival. He doesn't seem to find it strange that people check out at this hour. After the formalities are done, I take my car and drive to the airport. It is wonderful to drive through empty roads in the middle of the night. I open the windows, put the music on, it's http://www.hifmradio.com, the radio station that accompanied me throughout this week, warm air fills the interior of the car and I cruise into the night. I wish I had more time to stop and take photos of some of the mosques and landmarks I pass by. They are illuminated and look very beautiful.
When I reach a road near the airport, I notice many cars parked on the hard shoulder. I wonder what they're are doing and realise that from there you have a great view over the city. I continue my ride and stop when I reach the airport ground. I take out a paper with instructions on how to find the car park, but they seem to be outdated. I remember that it was carpark P1 I took the car from, and try to find the appropriate signs. But the signs I see say 'long stay' and 'short stay'. Since both signs point in the same direction, I follow them and when I reach a bend, I see the P1 sign. Here I am! Now I have to drive to the top floor. It takes me a few minutes to get to the top. There I find a man who asks me to park and take the key to the office downstairs. Then I proceed to the departures and find the check-in for the business class. I am surprised to see that it is not a simple counter next to the other counters, but you go through a glass door and there you find the counters and a seating area. All is very luxurious and posh. I check in and walk to the lounge, which is the most beautiful one I have ever seen. I spend about an hour in the lounge and then have to go to the gate.
The flight to Cairo takes an hour longer than it took to Muscat, but since it is early in the morning, I sleep most of the time. When we reach the desired height, a stewardess asks me when I would like to have my breakfast, now or later? I decide now, so I can sleep. She brings a menu with three different choices. None of them is a breakfast. I go for the falafel. Just before I go to sleep, I look down and see again sea of mostly orange lights here and there and everything seems so magical and peaceful. I fall asleep dreaming and thinking of this past week, images of Muscat, Birkat al Mouz, Al Mouj, the race and my friend come into my mind. I somehow regret that I haven't stayed longer, so I could visit Salalah in the south, and a few other places. But then think, that this is an excuse to come back to this wonderful country.
We arrive in Cairo after a 4:45 hours flight and I proceed to the lounge. To my surprise, the lounge is full. I have difficulties finding a place to sit. It is a very small lounge with limited seats and it is packed. The wifi doesn't seem to work and I ask a man who is sitting next to me. He confirms and says that it took him forever to connect. I give up after a few minutes, sit back in my comfortable chair and sleep for a while. When I open my eyes again, most people have gone and I try my luck with the wifi once more. This time it works.
When it is time to board, I walk to the gate and it is the same procedure as the last time. Show your boarding card, queue up at the only x-ray machine, take off coats, shoes, belts, everything that might cause the detector to beep, place your laptops and mobile devices into different trays and walk through the control. Get your stuff on the other side and spend a few minutes to get dressed and pack. Again, there is no divide between business/gold members and economy, so we all stand in the same queue. This time the business class is fully booked and I sit next to a British businessman.
It's noon when I arrive in a cloudy, but warm Athens and my only desire is to have a long shower and sleep for a bit.
Lounge in Muscat
Somewhere above the Aegean Sea
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